10.06.15 Cefn Bola Maen (SN 965 348), Garreg Fawr (SN
945 373), Pt. 412.8m (SN 925 349), Pt. 412.8m (SN 931 340), Coedcae Colfrân
(SN 936 330), Twyn Disgwylfa (SN 951 318) and Pt. 394m (SN 958 315)
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Twyn Disgwylfa (SN 951 318) |
Mynydd Epynt is a large
area of uplands in southern mid Wales whose hills in its northern and western
lands are out of bounds for much of the year.
These lands were acquired by the War Office in late June 1940 and subsequently
used as a military firing range and named the Sennybridge Training Area.
In all the War Office
acquired approximately 12,000 hectares of land and 219 people from 54 homes
were uprooted. These homes were mainly
farms and the community they formed has forever gone, with many having lived on
the Epynt for generations. Some found
new farms, whilst others lived out there lives heartbroken from their
loss. This sparse community was Welsh
speaking and their upheaval resulted in the de-facto Welsh language border
being shifted ten miles to the west.
Access through these
hills has to be planned, in the past I have been fortunate and have been taken
by a local farmer in his Landrover on the northern escarpment tracks late in
the evening when the military had ended their day’s work. I’ve also picked off some of the hills on
this ranges eastern periphery, but the bulk of the hills within the Epynt
remain unvisited by me.
In 2004 the Epynt Way was
created by the Ministry of Defence as a 75km (49 mile) long distance footpath,
this footpath is circular and has been established around the perimeter of the
firing range. This long distance
footpath partly compensates those who wish to visit this area as the old rights
of way have been closed due to the nature of the military’s use of the land.
Today I wanted to
investigate part of the southern land of the Epynt and visit four Pedwarau and
two Subs and survey as many summits and bylchau as possible, in fact only one
critical bwlch associated with these hills was not on my planned route and this
lay northward in the firing range and was definitely out of bounds for the day.
I parked in a small
lay-by just beyond Ffosygerwn which is used by a farmer to swing his vehicles
into his farmyard having spoken to him beforehand. As I got my boots on and sorted my gear out
the early morning wind whipped a chill into proceedings, and I put on my one
skin summer walking jacket as my arms
had got decidedly cold when I had previously spoken to the farmer.
My first hill of the day
was Cefn Bola Maen and to get to it I walked on quiet narrow lanes as they
meandered upward, a farmer passed on a quad bike with fresh warm milk contained
in a feeding vessel for a newly arrived calf, we only spoke for a minute or so
as he needed to get to the calf before the milk cooled.
I left the lane at a
corner and tried to find the continuing footpath having incorrectly
investigated the back of someone’s house named Troed-y-rhiw on the map which is
situated below the farm of Bolamaen. Behind
me the prominent profile of the Beacons rose out of the south-Walian landscape,
these hills and their distinctive shape would remain with me for the rest of
the day.
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The distinctive profile of Bannau Brycheiniog - the Brecon Beacons that would remain with me for most of the day |
Once on open hillside the
views across the intervening valley of the Nant Brân
opened up with my last Pedwar of the day; Twyn Disgwylfa, a tantalising far off
distance away.
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The slightly raised summit of Twyn Disgwylfa in centre of photo |
I headed up and crested
the eastern ridge of Cefn Bola Maen and swung left toward Maen Richard. This ancient standing stone is 1.52m high and
0.81m by 0.45m at its base. It overlooks
these southern lands and stands adrift of the hill’s summit whose whitewashed
trig pillar stares back at it. These two
pillars, one ancient and the other modern signify our intrinsic need for the
upland landscape. One may have been a
marker stone or a significant element of a complex ideological system, and the
other a bygone element in man’s need to catalogue and lay claim to a system of
height understanding.
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Old and modern; the ancient standing stone of Maen Richard with the more recent construction of the trig pillar on the summit of Cefn Bola Maen in the background |
As I paid my respects to
the older, I then walked to the newer and did the same by supplanting its flush
bracket height with a data set from a Differential GPS produced by the Trimble
GeoXH 6000.
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Gathering data from the summit of Cefn Bola Maen |
The critical bwlch for
Cefn Bola Maen is situated to its north and its position has two possibilities,
each separated by an intervening 386m spot heighted lump. Both positions were Trimbled and I continued
on a good green track heading north-westward as Sky Larks and their constant
mesmerising song serenaded the hills.
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Looking across to the summits of Coedcae Colfrân on the left and one of the Sub-Pedwar peaks on the right |
By now the first
explosions of the day had started, these and copious amounts of firing
continued intermittently for a number of hours afterward. My next hill was Garreg Fawr and I wanted to
survey its southern 428m spot heighted top as well as its 429m more westerly
spot heighted summit. On the way I
passed the dappled waters of Llyn Dŵr with its cotton grass
swaying in the breeze, it seemed a peaceful spot to rest, but I only did so for
a minute, just long enough to compose three or four photos.
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The blue tinged waters of Llyn Dŵr |
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A quiet landscape of cotton grass and water |
After taking a data set
from the position of the 428m spot height I pressed on through a large bog that
was thankfully relatively dry, beyond was the summit of Garreg Fawr, I thought
this an unusual name for such a hill unless of course a large rock existed
somewhere on its summit area. As I
approached the high point of its moorland summit I noticed what looked like a
small shelter of rock off in the distance, by the time I had set the Trimbe up
to gather its customary five minutes of data I knew that this rock was that of
Garreg Fawr and I thought its high point also needed Trimbling.
As the Trimble gathered
its all-important data from the moorland summit a small herd of grazing horses approached
from the east, they happily submerged themselves in the long grass. I then went to have a look at the rock that
the hill takes its name from, Garreg Fawr is indeed large. The rock is split in two and I wondered if it
is a recumbent that once stood proudly on this hill. Whatever its history I Trimbled it and took a
number of photos when doing so.
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On the edge of military land with grazing horses adding peace and tranquility to the thud of distant explosions |
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Gathering data from the summit of Garreg Fawr |
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Gathering data from the top of the Garreg Fawr |
I left this hill and headed
westward and found the descending track that would take me down to the head of
the valley at Blaendyryn. On the way I
stopped to take my jacket off as the sun had now heated up the land and the
wind was now making me overheat. The
track was ochre in colour and the heat of the day gave a reminiscent feeling of
walking in Greece or Spain where the sun is incessant and adds impetus to slow
movement.
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My route down to the valley with the ridge to the left of the distinctive copse of fir trees being my next objective |
My onward route did not
seem to have any right of access so I approached the farm of Maesybeddau with a
little caution. I was now next to the
land border between the farms of the southern Epynt and the military firing
range and a red flag flew flapping in the wind, with a large red sign
proclaiming ‘DANGER KEEP OUT WHEN RED FLAG IS DISPLAYED’.
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No entry when the red flag is flying |
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Definitely a place to avoid on red flag flying days |
Thankfully the two
farmers standing in the shade against the side of the farm house of Maesybeddau
did not seem to mind my presence, I tried conversing with them about
place-names but they seemed more interested in going indoors for their dinner,
this left me standing outside and with access to the continuing track that had
no right of access up it. I quietly
headed up the track and thankfully chose the right route where it diverted
toward the higher farm of Rhiw.
By now the early
afternoon was proving warm and I slowly made my way up the track and quietly
continued past Rhiw and followed the track to its end in a field. This then gave access through a gate back
onto the higher Epynt ridge. Away to my
north another red flag flew, but my route now continued south over two
Sub-Pedwar hills.
These two Subs are
listed under the point (Pt.) notation in Y Pedwarau as no names seem to exist
for these hills; one has 28m of drop and the other 26m of drop according to
Ordnance Survey map details. Each bwlch
and summit was Trimbled, with the high point of the 413m spot heighted top
being at a grassed ancient cairn, between each is the continuation of the track
that leads onto the military land.
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Gathering data from the summit of one of the 400m Sub-Pedwar hills with the copse of fir trees seen from the ochr coloured track on the right of the photo |
This track proved a
welcome convenience and eventually led down to the bwlch of Coedcae Colfrân which
is a fully fledged Pedwar with 31m of listed drop. By now the sun was taking its toll and I
walked straight over the bwlch and headed for a higher bwlch which I thought
was the one that needed to be surveyed.
I soon realised my mistake and backtracked to where the critical bwlch
for Coedcae Colfrân lay. This is beside
a paved road that heads over the southern Epynt from Llanfihangel Nant Brân
to Pentre’r-felin and Pontsenni (Sennybridge).
As I placed the Trimble
down on the track next to the narrow road I waited in the sunshine and watched
the occasional car and tractor as they crested the top of the road. Once bwlch data were gathered I followed a
sheep track back up toward the next summit, the sheep track soon found a wider
green track that led through a small copse of conifers to emerge onto open
hillside, a gate then led onto the high pasture where the trig point at the
summit of Coedcae Colfrân stands.
I placed the Trimble
approximately 4 metres from the base of the trig pillar on what looked to be
the high point of the hill, as all surrounding rocks at the base of the trig
moved when I examined them. I was
nearing the end of my walk but still had the bwlch and summit of Twyn Disgwylfa
to survey, this hill is a Hump as well as a Pedwar so it had a wee bit of
ascent from its connecting bwlch, and once the Trimble was packed away it was
this bwlch that I now headed down to.
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Gathering data from the summit of Coedcae Colfrân |
The north-western
profile of Twyn Disgwylfa is invitingly appetising with a gently gradiented
flank smooth with newly sprung fern and small trees edging their will up the
hill. However, this hides its bwlch
which consists of a bog laden with standing water.
I contentedly approached
this bwlch and pinpointed where I thought the Trimble needed to be placed from
the vantage point of height. Once at
this point I had to balance between large wobbly tussocks of reed grass as the
whole area is water laden. Before
placing the Trimble I photographed some of these tussocks as the afternoon
light highlighted their greens.
|
Greens of summer |
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Seemingly untouched and sprouting out of a landscape of tussock and water |
As the Trimble gathered
its data I stood legs stretched between one wobbly tussock and another with a
flatbed of water waiting for any slip. I
was very happy when five minutes of data were collected and delicately plodded
from one tussock to another and retrieved the Trimble.
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Gathering data in the bog which constitutes the bwlch of Twyn Disgwylfa |
I considered my options
through the bog and decided on the direct approach over an intervening fence
and a stride over more standing water, from here I found a green path leading
up hill and followed it until it disappeared near the top of the hill’s summit
ridge. I had obviously taken the wrong
path option lower on the hill as by the time I reached the summit ridge I re-joined
the green path, I rested whilst the Trimble gathered taken on a rock which was
obviously much lower than the high point of the hill, I just needed to rest so
why not gather data when doing so?
I slowly plodded along
this ridge past the first potential high point which is immersed in gorse, to
the next two potential high points; the latter two are attractive and are
situated near two pools which have cairns built on them, with the stones
seemingly floating on the water.
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One of the two attractive pools on the summit area of Twyn Disgwylfa |
Both of these potential
high points are thankfully situated on grass, away from the influx of gorse
which is widespread on the upper part of this hill. Both positions were Trimbled and as I waited
for the allotted five minutes of data to be collected I looked out to the
higher hills away to my south and west as the sun sank ever deeper in the
western sky.
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Gathering data from the summit of Twyn Disgwylfa |
I thought that these
would be my last surveys of the day but as I examined the map for my descent
route I noticed that the next bump on the ridge was a potential double
Sub-Pedwar, so I thought why not survey it.
This I duly did and happily sat on a grassed bank waiting for the
Trimble to gather bwlch data and stood in the breeze and sunshine at the summit
as it gathered its last data set of the day.
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Looking back toward Twyn Disgwylfa |
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The 18th and last data set of the day |
As I headed down the
green track from this last survey the Beacons stood out to the south, their
profile one of eloquent shape, with their hills set against a foreground of
greenery and yellowed gorse.
|
Evening light on Bannau Brycheiniog |
When the track bisected
I took the left hand option and followed it down through part of Coed y
Rhiw-las back to my car, with the ever present sun casting through the trees a
pleasing colour of contentment.
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My route back to the car |
Survey Result:
Cefn Bola Maen
Summit Height: 421.9m (converted to OSGM15)
Summit Grid Reference: SN 96510 34812
Bwlch Height: 375.3m (converted to OSGM15)
Bwlch Grid Reference: SN 96472 35794
Drop: 46.6m
Dominance: 11.05%
Garreg Fawr
Summit Height: 428.7m (converted to OSGM15)
Summit Grid Reference: SN 94536 37354
Bwlch Height: c 396m (interpolation)
Bwlch Grid Reference: SN 94843 40061 (interpolation)
Drop: c 33m
Dominance: 7.62%
Pt. 412.8m
Summit Height: 412.8m (converted to OSGM15)
Summit Grid Reference: SN 92523 34928
Bwlch Height: 385.2m (LIDAR)
Bwlch Grid Reference: SN 92403 35561 (LIDAR)
Drop: 27.6m (Trimble summit and LIDAR bwlch)
Dominance: 6.69% (Trimble summit and LIDAR bwlch)
Pt. 412.8m
Summit Height: 412.8m (converted to OSGM15)
Summit Grid Reference: SN 93184 34035
Bwlch Height: 385.3m (LIDAR)
Bwlch Grid Reference: SN 92897 34689 (LIDAR)
Drop: 27.5m (Trimble summit and LIDAR bwlch)
Dominance: 6.66% (Trimble summit and LIDAR bwlch)
Summit Height: 408.3m (converted to OSGM15)
Summit Grid Reference: SN 93612 33065
Bwlch Height: 377.2m (LIDAR)
Bwlch Grid Reference: SN 92953 33459 (LIDAR)
Drop: 31.1m (Trimble summit and LIDAR bwlch)
Dominance: 7.62% (Trimble summit and LIDAR bwlch)
Twyn Disgwylfa
Summit Height: 416.7 (converted to OSGM15)
Summit Grid Reference: SN 95132 31863
Bwlch Height: 315.9m (LIDAR)
Bwlch Grid Reference: SN 93709 32589 (LIDAR)
Drop: 100.8m (Trimble summit and LIDAR bwlch)
Dominance: 24.19% (Trimble summit and LIDAR bwlch)
Pt. 393.7m
Summit Height: 393.7m (converted to OSGM15)
Summit Grid Reference: SN 95885 31534
Bwlch Height: 373.8m (converted to OSGM15)
Bwlch Grid Reference: SN 95425 31655
Drop: 19.9m (non 390m Double Sub-Pedwar and non 300m Sub-Twmpau
status confirmed)
Dominance: 5.06%
For further details please
consult the Trimble survey spreadsheet click {here}