05.06.14 Yr Wyddfa
(SH 609 543) and Crib y Ddysgl (SH 610 551)
Yr Wyddfa (SH 609 543) |
Yr Wyddfa stands as an iconic sentinel to a
nation, the highest point in an ancient land, centred in Eryri where mountain
and sea both meet. It is bathed in myth
and legend and holds the distinction of being the most visited summit in the
British Isles with many hundreds of thousands of people either clambering up
its ridges or arriving at its summit after being transported by train every
year.
As befits such an iconic mountain its height is
viewed as important. After all without
such knowledge part of this iconic status would not be given. The mountain’s current given height is 1085m,
this height and its imperial equivalent of 3560ft has been constant from the
early part of the 1900’s.
Earlier height documentation quotes 3570ft (1088m
[Ordnance
Survey One-Inch 'Old Series' 1st May 1840]), this height matches
that given by the Rev William Bingley in 1801 who
estimated the height from local sea level as 3570ft (1088m), saying that “It rises to a mere point, the summit not
being more than 3 to 4 yards in diameter”.
Earlier still are two other height recordings, one by the renowned
naturalist, traveller, writer and antiquarian; Thomas Pennant, who quoted an
estimate of 3568ft (1087.5m), the other was by Mr Caswell from a survey in 1682
with instruments made by Flamstead who estimated the summit to be 3720ft (1134m).
The
summit area of the mountain has withstood numerous man-made structures
including hotels, huts, café’s, stone walls and a nearby railway terminus. It is currently crowned by a summit plinth
adorned with a circular triangulation pillar with a brass panoramic viewfinder
on its top, there to distinguish the view for the many thousands who peer out
in to the fog of mist when days aren’t especially clear. When those days are clear and the view is
savoured, one can be mesmerised by the light and shade as the play of light
highlight mountain top, lake and valley, all at the foot of Yr Wyddfa as the
great bulk of its eastern face plunges down toward Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw, two
timeless blue enhanced lakes.
We had
wondered about the accurate height of Yr Wyddfa for a number of years, partly
due to a flush bracket height quoted as 1086.002m in the OS Trig Database. This height was taken to the top of a flush
bracket that was on the side of the old triangulation pillar that once stood on
the summit. The year given for its
completion and levelling is 1961. As
flush brackets are usually positioned 30 – 35cm above the base of the trig
pillar, it would mean that the height to the base of the trig pillar would be
approximately 1085.70m, and as heights are usually rounded up or down when they
appear on the map, it seemed that this height was anomalous as it appears as
1085m on current maps.
There is
also the unwanted dilemma of what constitutes the high point of the highest
mountain in Wales; few would say it is the top of the trig pillar as this is
man-made. But if man-made objects should
not count, isn’t the ground immediately below the base of the trig pillar also
man-made? Surely the high point of this
most iconic of Welsh mountains should be taken to its natural high point and
not something that man has built? Advice
on this specific subject would have to be sought from Ordnance Survey.
It was
our intention to accurately re-height Yr Wyddfa with the latest GNSS technology
and do our utmost in determining the remaining natural high point of the
mountain. During this process we would
also gather height data for the ground immediately at the base of the
triangulation pillar to satisfy those who enjoy such debates between ‘natural’
and ‘man-made’ summit structures.
The
opportunity to re-survey Yr Wyddfa was prompted by Stephen Edwards who is the
organiser of the Snowdon race and who operates CREAD Cyf, a company
specialising in aspects of radio and TV coverage, centred on the outdoor world. Stephen contacted us and we arranged a
meeting with him to discuss the project.
Stephen had been present on some of our past surveys, including the ones
that determined Glyder Fawr to be 1000.8m high (999m on then current maps) and
Tryfan to be 917.5m high (915m on then current maps). Since our last meeting he had teamed up with
Aled Llŷr who runs Slam Media productions, which is an independent film
company.
The
project Stephen outlined was exciting as he knew of our intention to one day
re-survey Yr Wyddfa, and he wanted this to be a part of a six programme TV
series entitled ‘The Mountain’ which followed five people; Head Warden of the
Snowdonia National Park, Hill Farmer, Train Driver on the Snowdon Mountain
Railway, member of the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team and the owner of the
Halfway House café. The series would
follow these people and the seasonal impact the mountain has on their lives
with Yr Wyddfa as backdrop but also intrinsic in their daily occupation. Stephen envisaged that our re-survey of the
mountain would form part of the programmes based around the summer months.
Stephen suggested at least three visits were necessary, two to recce the summit
area and the final one to measure the height and gather summit data.
The first
recce was arranged for 5th June 2014, we met Aled and Stephen in the
car park adjacent to the Snowdon Mountain Railway and caught the 8.00am goods
train to the summit along with the staff from the café and an entourage of
cream cakes, various drinks and buttered scones, all neatly stacked for the
hundreds of visitors due to disembark from the train over the course of the
next nine hours.
Aled and John waiting to depart on the 8.00am goods train |
This was
a treat for us and one that we are very privileged to be offered, and thanks
should be expressed to Stephen for arranging it and for the Snowdon Mountain Railway
in letting us go to the summit in the train.
The major advantage with this was the ease of carriage for the weight
involved, as a surveying team our equipment takes three people to carry it and
Stephen and Aled also had their cameras and mountain gear.
The
journey by train also fulfilled a life time’s ambition for Graham who had never
previously travelled on the mountain railway, neither had John, I had; but have
no memory of it as I was aged about eight or nine and went up with my parents
and brother when on a family holiday in north Wales.
Part of the team assembled (L-R) Graham Jackson (Surveyor), John Barnard (Surveyor) and Aled Llŷr (Director) |
The
journey to the summit took about an hour, we left in the morning’s sunshine and
when past the rocky peak of Llechog the mist enveloped us. The remaining journey was done in the
knowledge that it was going to be a wee bit chilly on the top, so much so that
when we disembarked we instantly put on extra gear and headed straight in to
the café for a hot cup of tea. No sooner
had the café doors been opened and one or two walkers came in. Over the next couple of hours a whole
multitude of people spilled out of the trains wearing all manner of exotic
clothing. We busied ourselves with
conversation and timed our first sojourn out to the misty peak for when the
train passengers had mostly departed.
Into the mist as we pass the peak of Llechog |
Nearing the final ascent, Jonathan Tyler (Hafod Eryri manager) in red top and Stephen Edwards (Producer) on right of photo |
Aled
filmed us as we left the café and walked up the steps toward the summit, having
visited the top more than 30 times I was pleasantly and somewhat relieved to
find that what we had started to refer to as the summit plinth was not wholly
man-made, as large embedded rocks make up the bottom few metres of summit
structure. These rocks are part of what
is the summit tor and are the rocks that in 1801 the Rev William Bingley
described as “It rises to a mere point,
the summit not being more than 3 to 4 yards in diameter”. It is surprising how little one notices
when just visiting a summit for pure enjoyment, today we had a specific purpose
and it was great to get to grips with the summit tor, examining the lower rock
and seeing where the rock strata changed in position, this happens toward the
top of the ‘mound’ and is continuous around it.
The lower section is made up of the ‘natural’ tor and has embedded rock
usually slanting upwards, whilst the upper one metre – two metres has smaller
rock arranged pointing inwards encircling the ‘mound’. Further investigation proved these upper
rocks to have been placed by man, as a number of them either moved when
wriggled or came out when pulled; those that did were carefully replaced. We then concentrated on these upper rocks and
found small crevices between them, some large enough for us to insert our arms
up to the elbow. We then inserted a
flexible metal tape measure in a number of these crevices and found that the
length it went in matched that between the circular plinth at the base of the
trig and where these upper rocks had been positioned. This indicated that the circular plinth was
solid, rather substantial and no doubt man-made, it was this that the metal
tape was reaching when it would not go further in to each crevice, this
indicated that it was the circular plinth that had been constructed over the
‘natural’ summit tor.
John getting to grips with the outer section of the mound that surrounds the summit plinth |
Somewhere in here is the high point of the summit tor |
Our next
objective was to set up the level on the circular plinth beside the trig pillar
and attain readings to a number of the higher rocks of the tor, this meant that
Graham had to position himself delicately on the outside of the ‘mound; whilst
holding a surveyors staff, vertically aligned for John to read out figures on
the staff from the level, which I noted.
This was repeated on a number of ‘natural’ rocks around the upper
section of the ‘mound’. We then took
readings to the top of the trig pillar, its base and also to its flush
bracket. These we could compare to data
that had been collected from the top of the trig pillar using the Trimble GeoXH
6000.
The Trimble gathering data from the top of the trig on Yr Wyddfa |
All of this was being filmed by
Aled, whilst a multitude of people marched up the steps either side of the
summit ‘mound’. The realisation soon
dawned on us that the survey would probably have to take place in the evening
or early morning as we had difficulty operating the level purely through the
amount of people visiting the summit.
John with the level as another summit visitor poses for a photo |
Graham balances on the periphery of the summit plinth with the staff as Stephen looks on |
Once
satisfied that our first recce had accomplished more than we had hoped, we
headed for the café and more tea. By
this time there were signs that the predicted break in the weather with the
mist forecast to disperse and sunshine breaking through was just about to
happen, and as we left the café on our way toward Crib y Ddysgl the mist was
ripped from the summits, blue sky appeared and the world outside showed itself.
Aled filming a passing train as we head toward Crib y Ddysgl |
Although
our priority for the day was the reconnaissance of the summit of Yr Wyddfa, we
wanted to take the opportunity and also survey Crib y Ddysgl, which is listed
as the second highest mountain in Wales with a summit height of 1065m. However, to its north in the range of
mountains known as the Carneddau lies Carnedd Llywelyn, which has a map height
of 1064m, and with a margin of uncertainty of + / - 3m applied to the surveying
method that attained the latter height, it meant that Carnedd Llywelyn may in
fact be higher than Crib y Ddysgl.
The team assembled (L-R) Stephen Edwards (Producer), Aled Llŷr (Director), Graham Jackson (Surveyor) and John Barnard (Surveyor) and there's another surveyor behind the camera; me |
Once on
its summit we found the highest point with the aid of the level and staff. The Leica GS15 was positioned over it and we
gathered two hours of summit data. By
now blue sky shone from above with the clarity of colour enjoyed and although
I’d seen the view across to Yr Wyddfa from this position on many occasions, it
still proved awe inspiring as its great wedge of eastern face shot up to the
pointed summit, all enhanced by the perspective of tiny figures on its summit
and the upper part of the Llanberis path.
The Leica GS15 on the high point of Crib y Ddysgl |
Aled filming as Graham explains the intricacies of surveying |
As the
equipment was packed away we headed down and on to the Llanberis path with
Llechog in front of us and the Glyderau across the Afon Nant Peris to our
right. We had a thankful rest and cup of
tea in the Halfway House café, meeting Alwena Jones who is one of the five
people who Stephen and Aled are following for ‘The Mountain’ programme. I stayed a few minutes chatting with Alwena
as Stephen, Aled, John and Graham headed down.
My descent was on my own, as however fast I tried to walk there seemed
no way of catching the others, after a few minutes I settled in to a
comfortable pace and spent the next hour admiring the greens on the Moel Eilio
ridge as the late afternoons light shone vivid, accentuating the beauty of the
hills.
Heading down from the hill |
Postscript
Since the summit survey of Crib y Ddysgl full LIDAR coverage is now available. The LIDAR (Light Detection & Ranging) technique produced highly accurate height and positional data that is now freely available for England and Wales. Consequently the numerical details for this hill has been analysed using this technique, resulting in the LIDAR height and position for its bwlch being used.
Survey Result:
Yr Wyddfa
Summit Height: 1084.8m (converted to OSGM15) (Ordnance Survey historical data to bedrock at summit)
Summit Grid Reference: SH 60985 54374 (Old Triangulation Pillar and rdnance Survey historical data to bedrock at summit)
Bwlch Height: c 46m (interpolation)
Bwlch Grid Reference: NS 75816 78296 (interpolation)
Drop: c 1039m (Ordnance Survey historical data to bedrock at summit and interpolated bwlch)
Dominance: 95.76% (Ordnance Survey historical data to bedrock at summit and interpolated bwlch)
Dominance: 95.76% (Ordnance Survey historical data to bedrock at summit and interpolated bwlch)
Trimble GeoXH 6000 survey from 05.06.14: 1085.673m (converted to OSGM15)
Trimble GeoXH 6000 survey from 02.09.14: 1085.716m (converted to OSGM15)
Leica GS15 survey and processed with Ordnance Survey Bernese Software:
1085.716m (converted to OSGM15)
Ordnance Survey Result from 1961 Survey to High Point of Bedrock:
Natural High Point: 1084.74m (not converted to OSGM15) and 1084.786m (converted to OSGM15)
Crib y Ddysgl
Summit Height: 1065.4m (converted to OSGM15, Leica GS15)
Summit Grid Reference: SH 61079 55154 (Leica GS15)
Bwlch Height: 990.9m (LIDAR)
Bwlch Grid Reference: SH 60775 54849 (LIDAR)
Drop: 74.5m (Leica GS15 summit and LIDAR bwlch)
Dominance: 6.99% (Leica GS15 summit and LIDAR bwlch)
For further details please
consult the Trimble survey spreadsheet click {here}
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