Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Mynydd Bach

12.09.15  Ynys Aberteifi (SN 158 514)   

Ynys Aberteifi (SN 158 514)

Situated within 200 metres of the mainland, Ynys Aberteifi is the only major island on the great sweep of western coastline of Wales.  It rises to a map height of 52m and comprises 38 acres.  The Island is owned and managed by the Wildlife Trust of South and West Wales and is commonly referred to as Cardigan Island in English.

Our trip to this island was arranged by Adrian Rayner who had sought and been granted permission to visit by the owners, Adrian arranged our trip with A Bay to Remember, who operate boats out of Gwbert, which is a couple of miles north of Aberteifi (Cardigan).  The small family run business was set up in 2007 and run two boats; we had the pleasure of being shipped to the island in their 12 person RIB.

Departure time was set at 5.30pm and I arrived with plenty of time to spare and relaxed in the afternoon sunshine listening to the car radio.  One by one the others arrived with John Mackay, Marian Mackay, Alan Holmes and George Morl appearing from the direction of the beach next to where the Rib was moored in the estuary, Gordon Adshead soon arrived, followed by Douglas Law and Alex Cameron with Mark Trengove and Adrian Rayner pulling into the small lane leading down to the slipway and finally Rob Woodall and Smudge arrived.  There was debate whether to leave cars on the sands but due to high tide we were advised to park above the estuary.

Walking across the sands with the late afternoon sun sinking behind dotted cloud we met up with the two designated operators from A Bay to Remember, they patiently went through safely procedure and gave us our life jackets and on we clambered.  I sat at the back with Mark and within a few minutes the RIB was being manoeuvred out of the narrow estuary and into the open sea.

Heading over the sands towards the RIB

(L-R) Gordon, Mark, George, Alex, Alan, Smudge, Marian, Rob, Adrian, Doug and John

We kept close to the coastline as the RIB sped its way north and as we rounded the rocky jut of Craig y Gwbert, Ynys Aberteifi came into view.  The island was bathed in late afternoon light with its lower southerly coast gauged out into rocky crags and its upper grasslands pleasantly sloped up toward its slightly rounded summit.

Following the coastline north toward Ynys Aberteifi

Close to the eastern coast of the island the Dinghy that had followed us pulled toward the side of the RIB and Adrian, Rob, George, Mark, Gordon and me clambered aboard and were whisked off toward the slanting lower rock of the island.  As with most of these island trips the safest place to deposit visitors is on a flattish lower rock that usually then slants upward shelf-like until the safely of the grass above is reached.  This landing was no different, however the rock on previous island landings had always been wet and slippy, whilst today’s was dry and a delight to stand on.

Adrian securely on the island with the Dinghy heading back to collect the remaining six people from the RIB

As we made our way up the rock the Dinghy quickly swept back to the RIB and Doug, John, Marian, Smudge, Alex and Alan were aboard and whizzing toward the island.  As Adrian and Rob headed up the grass toward the top, a large flock of Geese rose from the summit area and wagh-onked their way across the sky, slowly darting in quickly formed formation flying landward and then circling back over the island.  Their continued call and flight was captivating and added to the serene nature of our surroundings.

Safely on the Dinghy the last of the party prepare to head toward Ynys Aberteifi

Standing on the summit and looking out to the flatbed of sea with the sun casting silver sheen across its limitless depths was a wonderful experience, these island trips are always special with each having their own individual atmosphere, but they seem to be over so quickly and as a number of summit photographs were taken, people started to roam and investigate whilst I positioned the Trimble on the highest point of land under helpful instruction from Alan.

Gordon on the lower grassed slopes

Call of the wild as Geese fly over the island

Smudge, Gordon and Doug with the shapely profile of Foel y Mwnt in the background

Rob and Adrian heading for the summit

As it gathered its five minutes of data I stood and looked out to sea and watched a gull fly through the silvered horizon where land meets the depths of ocean.  When the Trimble had gathered its allotted data I pressed ‘Done’ and took a photograph of Alex, Adrian, Alan and Mark at the summit, with Adrian holding two fingers aloft signifying this to be his two hundredth island that he had visited, a remarkable achievement.

Gathering data at the summit of Ynys Aberteifi

Becalmed tranquility

(L-R) Alex, Adrian, Alan and Mark at the summit of Ynys Aberteifi

Leaving the summit we headed over to the northern highpoint which according to the map is 9m lower than the island’s summit.  By now the sun had sank behind cloud and the prospect of a magical and illuminated sunset was tempting, but we couldn’t linger as many of the party were booked on the Ynysoedd y Moelrhoniaid island trip for tomorrow and had hours of driving ahead of them to get to their club huts, Youth Hostels and such like.

Looking toward the northerly highpoint

Alex videoing the scene

(L-R) Alex, Mark, Rob, Adrian and Alan on the northerly highpoint

Leaving the northern part of the island

Heading down toward the rock shelf

We found the narrow rib of rock leading down to the rock shelf and waited to be picked up by the Dinghy and transported back to the RIB.  Once the first set of six were safely dropped off on the RIB the Dinghy sped back to gather up the remaining six.

Getting onto the Dinghy

Approaching the RIB

The Dinghy picking up Smudge, Doug, John, Adrian, Alex and Rob

Once all aboard the RIB we were taken around the northern coast of the island, by now shower cloud had formed out to sea and pushed westward past us, but as we sped around the rock strewn island of Silian a rainbow flashed down from the sky illuminating the small island followed by the western tip of Ynys Aberteifi.

Silian and rainbow

The RIB ground to a halt as we all stared and soaked in the view as Silian looked as if it was alight and bellowing forth the rainbow, a quite magical site, as the RIB started its engines and headed toward the estuary the rainbow circled around the main island before disappearing from view.

Evening light on Ynys Aberteifi

It had been another magical island trip and all due to the logistical and patient expertise of Adrian who had gained permission for us to visit the island and organised the trip, thanks Adrian.

 

Survey Result:

Ynys Aberteifi (significant name change)

Summit Height:  52.5m (converted to OSGM15)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 15812 51487

Bwlch Height:  N/A (sea)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  N/A (sea)

Drop:  52.5m

Dominance:  100.00%

For further details please consult the Trimble survey spreadsheet click {here}

Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Yr Eifl

19.04.15  Ynys Tudwal Fawr (SH 334 251)

Ynyd Tudwal Fawr (SH 334 251)

Having visited Ynys Tudwal Fach and clambered safely back on the Rib we slowly roared across the intervening water and headed for the adjacent and higher island.  Permission to visit this island had been sought from and given by the landowner, the planning required to organise these island trips should not be underestimated and their continued success and great days out are due to Adrian’s diplomacy.

With concrete steps forming a landing platform on this second island the depositing onto ‘dry land’ should have been easier than that on Ynys Tudwal Fach, but again, these steps were positioned on the east of the island, sheltered from the western wind that predominantly blows in these isles, but today we had an easterly and as we were slowly maneuvered into place the boatman instructed us that when he said that we should ‘go’ we should not hesitate.  Alex went first and landed safely, I went next and timed by lunge for when the sea swell brought the Rib straight upto the steps, thankfully Alex grabbed my hand and pulled me ashore, otherwise I may have been left in mid-air without the comfort of the safety of the Rib or concrete steps to remain relatively dry on.

Adrian soon followed and as he and Alex remained on the steps to assist John and Marian, who the boatman had gone back to pick up from Ynys Tudwal Fach, I followed a vehicle track from the steps up the grassed slopes of the island.

Alex and Adrian safely on dry land on Ynys Tudwal Fawr

Looking down onto our landing spot with Ynys Tudwal Fach in the background

Across the sea our previous island stood elongated in profile with the outline of the standing stones prominent on its horizon.  Below the island was our Rib which was being expertly directed toward the small sheltered cove to pick John and Marian up and bring them over to where we now were.

The rib below the stone circle on Ynys Tudwal Fach

As John and Marian joined Alex and Adrian on the safety of the concrete steps I slowly walked up toward the lighthouse which is at the summit of the island, and savoured the stunning blue sky and the ever present wind-blown gliding capabilities of the overhead gulls.

With John and Marian safely on the RIB it headed toward Ynys Tudwal Fawr

The RIB being positioned for the second landing

Ever present companions - Gull in flight

Heading toward the Lighthouse and compound at the summit of Ynys Tudwal Fawr

Wind blown grass set against Ynys Tudwal Fach and the higher Eryri peaks beyond

I walked around the perimeter wall of the lighthouse and over a ladder stile into its compound, where the highest ground is easily found.  As the Trimble was being positioned Adrian, Alex, John and Marian joined me for us to quickly investigate the outdoor hot tub and take in our surroundings.

Adrian does the honours as Marian and John pose for the customary summit photograph

Time spent on these islands are all too short and as the boatman headed back toward the steps John and Marian headed down with Adrian who could assist their departure if required.  This left the Trimble to slowly ebb down to its required 0.1m accuracy before data can be logged.

Gathering data at the summit of Ynys Tudwal Fawr

Alex waiting patiently beside the Lighthouse as the Trimble collects its allotted five minutes of data

Once data were collected I sauntered down the vehicle track with Alex and met Adrian as he was heading back up.  I’d seen Adrian’s low-key celebratory relief earlier in the day as he had succeeded in getting permission to visit these islands and had then organised a multitude of logistics for us to visit, I asked if he would pose for a celebratory photo, he duly obliged.

Adrian on his way back up the vehicle track

A deserving celebration as Adrian had pulled off another logistical coup

Whilst we were on the island the boatman had taken John and Marian back to the mainland and picked up Alan, George, Rob, Doug and Paul, who were now all in the Rib as it approached the landing platform and the concrete steps.

(L-R) Alan, Doug, George, Rob and Paul getting set for their landing

Maneuvering into position

Rob went first and was assisted by Alex, with Doug and Alan soon following, once all five were on the island the three of us got back in the Rib.  By now by belly flop entrance had been honed and I really went for it this time and dived from the steps head first into the Rib!

Rob being manhandled ashore

Alan is next with able assistance from Alex

We were dropped off on the wooden slatted slipway and as soon as I landed I found myself on all fours and soaked at the sea swell came up from under the boards.  We waited for the five others as the wind and sun dried off all my gear. 

Alex went down to meet them on the slipway as Doug also got a good drenching as he walked up the wooden boards as the swell came up from behind and soaked him.

Doug's just had a good soaking

As the sun shone we sat and chatted with the sands and wooden beach huts of Abersoch just below us.  It had been another great day on two beautiful islands.

Abersoch beach

Alex, Doug, Adrian and Alan after another great island trip

Back on dry land - organiser extraordinaire and our RIB Captain for the day

Survey Result:

Ynys Tudwal Fawr

Summit Height:  43.2m (converted to OSGM15)

Summit Grid Reference:  SH 33490 25173

Bwlch Height:  N/S (sea)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  N/A (sea)

Drop:  43.2m (converted to OSGM15)

Dominance:  100.00%

For further details please consult the Trimble survey spreadsheet click {here}

Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Yr Eifl

20.04.15  Pen Diban (SH 112 205) and Mynydd Enlli (SH 123 219)   

Mynydd Enlli (SH 123 219)

Ynys Enlli lies as a dominant influence for people with faith, especially so in medieval times when it was a major centre of pilgrimage with a legendary 20,000 saints laid to rest in its grounds.  Today the island supports a small community of farms and a bird observatory, as well as a small tourist industry with holiday lets and day trips by people seeking solitude of island life and an ascent of its hill; Mynydd Enlli, which at a map height of 167m is listed as a Marilyn.

Although I wanted to visit the summit of Mynydd Enlli and do a number of surveys, including Pen Diban at the southern point of the island, I also wanted to explore its land and history.  I’d wanted to visit the island for many years and having watched the sun sink into the sea close to its darkened silhouette just after last Christmas I decided to make a concerted effort and visit the island during this year.

The opportunity arose when visiting Ynys Tudwal Fach and Ynys Tudwal Fawr, as John Mackay said that the boat to the island was leaving at 10.30am on Monday from Porth Meudwy.  The skipper was Colin Evans who had taken us over to Ynys Gwylan Fawr in early February of this year.

I drove from Nantlle toward Porth Meudwy with a beautiful and welcoming blue sky overhead and a weather forecast that was perfect for visiting the island, with sunshine all day and only a light breeze predicted.

It takes a little navigating on narrow lanes to find the earthen large car park to the south-west of Aberdaron which is the starting point for boat trips to Ynys Enlli.  This car park is situated at SH 158 259 and as I pulled in it was quiet, I got by walking boots on and relaxed for a few minutes before another car drove in.  The occupants were a couple from Norfolk on holiday, as they started down the track toward the small bay I followed.

Arriving at Porth Meudwy was similar to many of the Greek island bays that I had been to over the years, as it was secluded and today it was bright with sunshine and a lapping blue sea.  Colin soon arrived followed by John and Marian and a few other people, some arriving via the cliff footpath.

Marian next to the Benlli III at Porth Meudwy

We set off on the 20 minute trip over the sea and approached the island down its eastern coast with Mynydd Enlli on grand display rising steeply up from the sea and culminating in its small rocky top.

Part of the eastern face of Mynydd Enlli

A seal met us as we pulled into the well protected bay where the slipway came out to sea, it’s head bobbed up out of the water looking inquisitively as we chugged the last few metres toward the slipway.

A single seal met us as we arrived on Ynys Enlli, many more were on the rocks when we departed

Within a few minutes Colin had attached the boat to its trailer and pulled it onto the slipway with a tractor.  We climbed down the ladder onto the gravelled patch of land just above the narrow isthmus that separates the higher bulk of the island from that of its Lighthouse at Pen Diban.

Marian, John and Colin next to the Benlli III and the slipway on Ynys Enlli

Colin attached the boat to its trailer and pulled it ashore with the tractor

We gathered on the grass just above the boat where Colin gave an informative and sometimes humorous account of the island’s history and its current state of affairs.  This talk was given with passion and benefited because of it, with Colin being able to trace his family’s direct association with the island back six generations.  He was brought up on the island at the small school house that now has a number of information boards on its walls.  He went through its history, its population decline and the recent struggles he had had with conservation bodies.  He instructed us that we had about 3 hours 45 minutes to enjoy the island and off he went to investigate his lobster pots.

I decided to walk toward Pen Diban first and left the others chatting with Colin before he took back to the waters, leaving the small group of people I joined a gravelled track come path that headed toward the Lighthouse, on my way I assessed the connecting bwlch which is at the island’s narrowest point, before continuing south toward the high point of Pen Diban.  This small hill used to be listed as a Pellennig; one of the remotest hills of Wales, as it just qualified with c 15m of drop.  However, later on-line mapping which had 5m contour intervals suggested a drop of only c 14m, so the hill was deleted from the Pellennig ranks.

Colin chatting with our group beside the slipway on Ynys Enlli

I walked into the Trinity House compound where the Lighthouse is situated and over a wall toward the high point of the hill, this has a circular concrete structure on it which is built on a small rock outcrop.  I took data from two points outside of the structure, both on rock outcrops.  Whilst the Trimble gathered its allotted data I looked out to the southern tip of the island and then to the north where Mynydd Enlli rose up with sides of grass and gorse, Colin had previously suggested that one of the best routes up the hill was to follow a narrow path on its southerly ridge, with another path zig zagging up through the gorse on the hill’s western side.

Gathering data at the first surveyed summit position of Pen Diban

Gathering data at the second surveyed summit position of Pen Diban

Once the Trimble had gathered its summit data I packed it away and re-joined my inward route back down to the bwlch at the isthmus.  The area of the bwlch proved relatively flat, and the more I looked at it the harder it became to pinpoint where the critical point lay.  However, once I'd positioned the Trimble it proceeded to gather data whilst I took a few photographs and looked out to the western sea.

The bwlch of Pen Diban is also the narrowest point of the island

As I walked back toward the slipway I could see small figures ascending the southern ridge of Mynydd Enlli and having previously decided to use the zig zags as an ascent route I changed my mind and headed toward the base of the southern ridge.  A track leads from the slipway toward a number of houses with one being where Jo was outside happily crafting a basket, we chatted for a minute or so, she asked if I would like a drink and although the thought was tempting I wanted to press on and leave myself sufficient time after the ascent to investigate the northern part of the island.

Jo crafting baskets

As I left Jo the sun beat down with refreshing warmth, I found the path up the south ridge and slowly made my way up, occasionally looking back as I gained height onto the southern land below with Pen Diban circling left and almost separated from the main part of the island.

The southern part of Ynys Enlli

As I gained height there were large areas of hillside covered in spectacularly bright yellow gorse which contrasted against the blue of sea and sky.  I soon met John and Marian on their descent from the summit, they kindly told me what to expect as I wanted to survey the southern top of the hill which is given a 166m spot height and only one metre below the higher map heighted main summit.  They described each summit and where the zig zag path leaves the southerly ridge path, this I wanted to take on my way down as it would take me toward the north of the island.

Hillsides of gorse

Meeting John and Marian on their descent from the summit of Mynydd Enlli

I was now amongst the hillsides of gorse and I looked back one last time on Pen Diban, now just a curved flatland extending southward out to sea.

The curved shape of Pen Diban

As I crested the summit ridge the slight breeze was welcome from the unusually warm April weather.  I found the southern top and placed the Trimble on its grassed mound, before walking over to the obvious high point of the hill.  This consists of a large rock which I immediately stood on and peered out to sea, looking down reminded me of a visit to the high point of Kos three years ago, where the land shot down to the blue sea below.

Gathering data at the southern summit on top of the grassy mound

I balanced the Trimble on the rock and aligned its internal antenna with its high point, with it set firmly in place I pressed ‘Log’ and walked off to catalogue the details of the survey.  Once five minutes of data were collected I took a number of photos and sat next to the rock and ate a butty.  No one was on the summit and for the next ten minutes I happily drank in the atmosphere of this the high point of Ynys Enlli, a marvellous place.

A spectacular position for the Trimble

The Trimble aligned with the high point of Mynydd Enlli

Gathering data at the summit of Mynydd Enlli

My descent route was directly north-west on what I thought to be a path; this turned into open hillside of grass and gorse and proved easy to negotiate.  In time this route took me down to the remains of St Mary’s Abbey which is perched in the cemetery of the island.  I looked at some of the inscriptions on the grave stones, including one to the wife of the Lighthouse keeper; she was only in her early 30’s when she died.

The remains of the Abbey at the northern end of Ynys Enlli

Neatly engraved slate plaque on the cemetery wall

Mention of the legendary 20,000 saints

The remains of the Abbey

After investigating the remains of the Abbey I walked south on the track toward the slipway, past a number of houses, some of which are holiday lets with the same people re-visiting each year, and why not I thought, what a fantastic place to come and stay and immerse yourself in the peaceful existence of island life.

Beautiful Carreg Bach

As I walked on the track I decided to look in on the Bird Observatory and met Emma and Steve Stansfield, who had met on the island, married and stayed.  Steve had been a resident on Ynys Enlli for 18 years and Emma for 14 years; they are a lovely couple and kindly posed for a couple of photos.  It was interesting speaking with them as I voyeuristically scampered around the island photographing and visiting and hill bagging and surveying, and they stood and chatted about their life and the rigours and fun of adapting to having no electricity or gas, and the feeling of visiting the mainland and the fun of doing a six month shop in one visit to a supermarket!

Steve and Emma Stansfield

On my way back to the slipway I looked in the school house, where Colin had been brought up.  Before leaving the island I headed over the fields to a small beach on the west of the island where a pair of Choughs were circling overhead and occasionally landing on the sand.

I wanted to take a data set beside the water to see if the processed data gave a negative reading, I sat the Trimble on top of a small rock and hoped that it wouldn’t slither off into the seaweed and salty water, and set it to log another five minutes of data.

Gathering data beside the sea

Seals relaxing in the afternoon sunshine

As the boat pulled out to sea I sat contentedly watching the eastern part of the island slowly pass me by.  Colin then stopped the boat to point out a Peregrine high on Mynydd Enlli, he then took us on a magical journey close to the rising eastern face of Mynydd Enlli before venturing out to the open sea and stopping the boat again.  He said that on most days he encounters porpoise in this spot and as the sun shone down we started to spot the fins of porpoises rising and then disappearing into the water.

Ynys Enlli rising out of the sea

It's hard to photograph a porpoise, a fin can just be seen toward the bottom right of the photo

Colin seemed in no rush and as we left the porpoises he took the boat toward the Parwyd, which is an impressive 3ooft cliff.  Again he stopped the boat as it slowly meandered its way toward the cliff which was forever getting larger in sight.

The 300ft cliff face of Parwyd

From here we slowly made our way around the eastern part of the coastline passing beautifully structured rock formations with stunningly coloured blacks and yellows butting against one another, and all set against an illuminated blue of sea and sky.

Striking yellows and blacks of the mainland close to Porth Meudwy

It had been a lovely day on Ynys Enlli, one that had given a very different feeling when compared to the adventurous previous day on Ynys Tudwal Fach and Ynys Tudwal Fawr.  Although I had whizzed around some of the places as I wanted to survey at least five points, the atmosphere of the island had pervaded, leaving me quietly content and happy. 

Postscript: 

Since visiting these hills LIDAR coverage is now available.  The LIDAR (Light Detection & Ranging) technique produced highly accurate height and positional data that is now freely available for England and Wales.  Consequently the numerical details for these hills have been analysed using this technique, resulting in these being updated accordingly.

Survey Result:

Pen Diban

Summit Height:  20.0m (converted to OSGM15, Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Summit Grid Reference:  SH 11235 20585 (Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Bwlch Height:  5.0m (LIDAR)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SH 11274 20954 (LIDAR)

Drop:  15.0m (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and LIDAR bwlch) (Pellennig reinstatement)

Dominance:  74.92% (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and LIDAR bwlch)

Mynydd Enlli

Summit Height:  167.9m (converted to OSGM15)

Summit Grid Reference:  SH 12312 21930

Bwlch Height:  N/A (sea level)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  N/A (sea level)

Drop:  167.9m

Dominance:  100.00%

The data set taken at SH 11441 21234 beside the sea attained a negative figure of – 0.44m (converted to OSGM15).

For further details please consult the Trimble survey spreadsheet click {here}