Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Carn yr Hyrddod

27.05.23  Clawdd Du Mawr (SN 851 690) 

Clawdd Du Mawr (SN 851 690)

In May 2003 I spent an inordinate amount of time sighting from a fixed spirit level attached to a basic levelling staff and slowly made progress from the bwlch of Clawdd Du Mawr up toward its summit.  I was surveying this hill for Dewey status, which for qualification requires a minimum 30m of drop.  The process of measuring was repeated until reaching the summit area; the last measure I took on to solid ground was about 30 metres from where I judged the high point of the hill was situated.  Sighting across to this point the drop came to 87ft (26.5m).  I then packed the staff away and turned to descend the hill, the friend I was with asked if I was going to visit the summit, I replied ‘no, it doesn’t qualify’.  The following year I completed compilation and purposely started visiting hills in the list that is now known as the Welsh Highlands – Uchafion Cymru.  As all Welsh hills at and above 500m in height with 15m minimum drop qualify for this list, I always regretted not walking that final 30 odd metres to what I judged to be the high point of this hill.  Today, in the company of Aled I rectified the issue and after 20 years of regret finally stood on the summit of Clawdd Du Mawr!

Having recently visited Esgair Pentanau (SN 846 703) and Esgair y Llyn (SN 841 701); two hills relatively close to Clawdd Du Mawr, with only copious amounts of tussocks and bog between, we knew that the grass of the Elenydd was only just sprouting and that the ground was relatively dry.  The grass later in the summer would be thick and tough to walk through, therefore with the continuing fine weather we met at our usual spot in Caersŵs and I then drove toward the stunning openness of the Elenydd. 

The beautiful openness of the Elenydd

A convenient place to park to access the Monk's Trod

We were parked and walking by 7.30am, following narrow sheep paths as they headed through tussocks toward friendlier closely cropped grass above.  As we gained height the scar of the Monk’s Trod; an ancient route over these hills which nowadays is classified as a by-way and which therefore gives permission to all forms of two wheeled vehicles to use, came in to view.  This path follows the crest of an elongated ridge as it makes its way up to the summit of Clawdd Du Mawr. 

The initial path through the tussocks

Reaching the Monk's Trod

We were soon on the main path and even though still relatively early, the clear blue sky and unremitting sun cast warmth across the land, which later in the day would be uncomfortably warm.  The route toward the main path looked across the Nant Torclawdd as it tumbled its way down valley, above the steam a small patch of bluebells cast their magical tinge of colour.  A few sheep looked our way as we gained height, otherwise the early morning gave little disturbance, and it was a beautiful place to be on such a fine morning. 

Bluebells

The main path soon reached the ridge proper where we were confronted by a Council sign giving the permitted times for two wheeled vehicles to use the Monks Trod; all rather surreal.  In places the land had been gauged by vehicle tracks, leaving watery rutted marks on the moor, last weekend when on Esgair Pentanau we spotted about ten trail bikes on the Monks Trod and expected to find more today. 

An unusual place to encounter a sign

We seemed to make good progress with me following Aled as he chose the best route onward.  Ahead and to our right the distinctive profile of Blaen Rhestr came in to view, and this slowly got nearer as we continued our progress on the ridge.  Below and to our north was the farm house of Glanhirin, where we had parked last weekend.  To the left of Blaen Rhestr a rather indistinct moorland lump rose in front; this was Clawdd Du Mawr, my objective for the day, although Aled in his youth and enthusiasm would continue beyond and visit a further four hills.

As we neared the summit of Clawdd Du Mawr the path was no more than an indistinct vehicle track on the moor, the ten figure grid reference produced by LIDAR led us to its high point.  I looked around and smiled at how close I had been twenty years ago when I turned my back on the summit.  This memory was still vivid and seeing the ground and direction I had ascended only made it more striking. 

LIDAR image of Clawdd Du Mawr (SN 851 690)

I soon had the Trimble set up atop my rucksack to gather summit data, before creating the file and waiting for the 0.1m accuracy level to be attained before data should be logged I wished Aled well and off he shot heading toward the main path leading to Blaen Rhestr. 

Gathering data at the summit of Clawdd Du Mawr

It was good to be back here after such a long time, with that memory always lingering of a summit almost reached.  As I headed away from the top I noticed the small figure of Aled on top of Blaen Rhestr, he was already making good progress, and I wouldn’t see him for another 4½ hours.  The descent was beautiful with a myriad of Sky Larks as accompaniment; I used a track on the right in preference to the one we had mainly used on our ascent, with both relatively close to one another. 

Aled on the summit of Blaen Rhestr

Lower on the ridge the trail bikes appeared, one had evidently got stuck as they had halted on my approach.  I stopped and chatted with them for ten minutes or so.  It was good to rest and meet people who gained their pleasure on the hill from something very different to mine.  As we talked a mountain biker approached, he also stopped, before leaving I asked for a group photograph which they kindly posed for. 

A frequent occurrence on the Monk's Trod

Before meeting the trail bikers I had come across a single running shoe left beside the path.  I wondered why only one was on the moor and what had happened to its owner.  This could be a forlorn place to be on a cold and rain soaked day, made even worse if only in possession of one running shoe.

I soon descended to the Council sign and continued on the last section of the Monk’s Trod as it veered rightward away from the ridge crest and down toward friendlier climes in the valley below.  It was here that I met a lovely couple from Rhaeadr Gwy who were heading up to one of the mountain lakes to swim.  We talked for quite some time, this was not their first visit and they told me how clear the water is.  We had reached the lower of the two mountain lakes last weekend and that certainly is a beautiful and quiet place to be, I rather envied their afternoon ahead, swimming in a mountain lake with few if any other people about.

Leaving them I continued down, stopping once to sit and enjoy the view whilst eating a boiled egg.  Leaving the Monk’s Trod I joined a distinct sheep path which led away from tussocks to a quad bike track which took me down on to the minor road about 300 metres from my car.  After reaching the car and packing my walking gear away I drove the short distance to the track that Aled would use for his descent.  Here I opened the car doors, got changed and sat in the sun on my camping chair and waited for Aled to appear.  It was all very relaxed and utterly enjoyable.  He soon appeared and off we went for a chippie treat sitting in the sun in Rhaeadr Gwy. 

 

Survey Result:

 

Clawdd Du Mawr                      

Summit Height:  533.3m (LIDAR)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 85179 69030 (LIDAR)

Bwlch Height:  507.4m (LIDAR)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 84938 69068 (LIDAR)

Drop:  25.8m (LIDAR)

Dominance:  4.84% (LIDAR)

 

 

For further details please consult the Trimble Survey Spreadsheet

 

 

 

 

 

  

Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Carn yr Hyrddod

20.05.23  Esgair Pentanau (SN 846 703) and Esgair y Llyn (SN 841 701) 

Esgair Pentanau (SN 846 703)

The uplands in the central belt of Wales are always a pleasure to visit.  Their quality are emphasised by their openness and remoteness.  Few fences cross their wild depths and only an occasional narrow mountain road pass through them.  On a good day when the weather is fine they give so much when their seemingly unending beauty stretches to the horizon.  It was one such day when we visited the remote hills of Esgair Pentanau and Esgair y Llyn.  Even though I’d previously visited their higher neighbours on two occasions I had not visited these two hills and the walks to their higher adjacent hills were in 2003 and 2005 and therefore 18 years had passed since I was last in this area, and that timeframe only highlighted how wondrous these hills are. 

Glanhirin

On my previous visits to this area I had sought and been granted permission to park at Glanhirin; a remote farm in the wilderness of the Elenydd that is hidden from view when travelling on the mountain road between Rhaeadr Gwy and Aberystwyth, and one that can only be accessed by a 1½ mile long track that crests its high point and then descends toward the farm.  I again sought and was granted permission to park.  The farmer was a delight to speak with and I remember her showing me their Angora Goats in 2003. 

The route to the hills

By 8.20am I was parked at Glanhirin and soon afterward Aled and I were heading past the farm house to the first of two gates leading on the continuation of the track toward the hills.  Soon afterward the track split and we veered left and lost height at it descended to cross the Nant Cerrigyrhelyg.  Beyond the stream the track gained height and then petered out to a quad bike track on the moor.  This we followed ever upward.  The forecast for the day was ideal with a cooling north-easterly breeze and any cloud soon burnt off by an increasingly warming sun.  As we followed the quad bike track there were now only blue skies above. 

Looking back toward Glanhirin

The quad bike track follows the crest of the Escair Cormwg ridge and this was the way I headed to the higher hills on my last visit in 2005.  But whereas I continued on this ridge until reaching the summit of Blaen Rhestr, today we veered off it and headed rightward and descended to a small outcrop of attractive rocks before contouring around a near bog, this led to the remains of what is marked on the map as a water course.  We then followed this as it contoured its way toward Llyn Cerrigllwydion Isaf.  The distinctive call of Canada Geese greeted us as we approached the lake.  Even though our route to this point had been relatively easy, we were still in some of the most remote land in Wales and the lake was one of those land points aimed for and now reached. 

Typical unrelenting Elenydd territory

Our first glimpse of Llyn Cerrigllwydion Isaf

As Aled settled down to have a bite to eat I used the Trimble as a hand-held device to zero in on the ten figure grid reference Aled had ascertained from his recent LIDAR analysis.  Once at the critical point the Trimble was set-up on top of my rucksack, the measurement offset noted before setting it to gather its allotted data.  During data collection I sat with Aled and stared out across the beauty of the lake and those wild higher hills beyond. 

The Trimble GeoXH 6000 gathering data at the bwlch of Esgair Pentanau

Esgair Pentanau from its connecting bwlch

This bwlch connected with the summit of a Welsh Highland Sub that Aled had only recently confirmed its status, its summit had stared out at us as we headed toward the water course before reaching the lake, and its high point was crowned by a large boulder.  Once data at the bwlch were gathered and stored we headed toward its high point. 

Nearing the summit of Esgair Pentanau

As we neared the top the boulder grew in size, I’ve visited many Welsh hills over the years and a few have large boulders crowning their summits, but I can’t think of any that match this wondrous rock for its size.  The boulder was split with its larger section taking in its high point; this gave us a gap to get in to before clambering up to its highest point.  Aled led the way as I took photos.  It was soon my turn, neither am I as young or lithe as I used to be and this scramble involved a little huffing and puffing, but soon I was on the top with Aled.  It was a great place to be looking down and across the expanse of the near lake. 

Aled at the summit of Esgair Pentanau

After setting the Trimble up to gather summit data I sat perched on a narrow ledge and tried to keep my head below the equipment so as not to disturb satellite reception.  Once allotted data were stored I closed the equipment down, took a few photographs and watched as Aled now sprang up the opposite side of the boulder and re-joined me on the summit.  I soon slithered back down in to the gap and eventually onto the comfort of terra-firmer below.

Setting the file up in the Trimble GeoXH 6000.  Photo: Aled Williams

 

Gathering data at the summit of Esgair Pentanau

Sitting on the large boulder waiting for the Trimble to gather allotted data.  Photo: Aled Williams

Esgair Pentanau is an excellent addition to the Welsh Highland Subs and is an ideal example of when the quality of a hill should not be judged by its prominence alone.  We now headed back to the lake where a quad bike track headed west toward the lower slopes of Esgair y Llyn, for me this was the main objective of the day as it knocked off another one of my ever decreasing Welsh Highland P15s that remained to be visited.  However, for Aled it was just a staging point as he would then head up to the higher hills. 

Esgair y Llyn (SN 841 701)

By now the day was warming up.  Again the ten figure grid reference generated by Aled’s LIDAR analysis led us to the summit of Esgair y Llyn, one more down and just a few more to go.  Having set the Trimble up to gather data I joined Aled and happily ate a slice of cake he had kindly saved for me.  It was another lovely place to sit and relax, but whereas the previous summit had been exciting and dramatic, this was a more leisurely affair with tussock grass and moorland surrounds as our companions. 

Approaching the summit of Esgair y Llyn

Gathering data at the summit of Esgair y Llyn

We now headed down to its connecting bwlch where the critical point was found to be in a bog, which today was thankfully relatively dry.  Once the equipment was set to gather data I again sat with Aled and waited for the allotted data to be gathered and stored.  We now went our separate ways, Aled toward the higher near hills and me back down toward Glanhirin.  My route down proved slightly torturous but still utterly beautiful. 

Gathering data at the bwlch of Esgair y Llyn

My aim was the beginning of another track that re-joined our inward one and which led back to Glanhirin.  To get there I had to contour the land below the main ridge which would now always be on my left.  This involved using narrow sheep paths that went this way and that through a never ending landscape of tussocks.  Progress was slow.

Leaving the bwlch I contoured the western flank of Esgair y Llyn before heading down to cross the Gamlas Las, sheep paths shot off in all directions and all through mounds of grass tussocks.  I now had the option to keep high and try and avoid bog or head lower to where we had spotted a route toward the track that at least used green sections of grass.  I decided to keep high and continued contouring the land using ever narrower sheep paths.  I stopped once at a small rock where I sat, ate a boiled egg and marvelled at the land hereabouts; it was unrelenting in nature, with miles of open land, much of it consisting of tussock grass. 

Looking a bit weather beaten during my rest on the small rock

Eventually the beginning of the track leading to Glanhirin came in to view and all I now had to do was contour around a large expanse of bog and join a quad bike track on the moor that gained height and then descended toward another smaller bog, just beyond was the track.  When I reached it I sat and celebrated by resting and eating a banana.  Unbeknownst to me, Aled had just spotted me from above as he headed toward the sub of Bryn Mawr. 

Glanhirin was a welcome sight

As I headed down the track to Glanhirin I knew in hindsight I should have continued up to the high point of the ridge at Cnapyn Drawsffos and followed the good vehicle track on the moor down toward the track leading to Glanhirin, this would have saved me an awful lot of slow cumbersome walking.  However, the land I walked through was wild and stunning and I’m glad I had the chance to experience it.

Before leaving Glanhirin I left a note thanking the farmer for letting us park and all that remained was the drive back up the track to the bwlch connecting with the 400m Sub-Pedwar of Lan Fraith, before downward to the flat bridge just before the minor mountain road where I had arranged to wait for Aled.  However, as I drove to the bwlch who should be standing on the track but Aled, he had arrived about a minute earlier and had made good time considering the territory he had just walked through.

It had been an excellent day on the hill amongst some of the most unforgiving land Wales has to offer, however those quad bike tracks certainly help.  Such days replenish the soul leaving memories that last.

 

Survey Result:

 

Esgair Pentanau

Summit Height:  504.2m (converted to OSGM15)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 84648 70308

Bwlch Height:  493.2m (converted to OSGM15)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 84472 69977

Drop:  11.0m (Welsh Highland Sub addition)

Dominance:  2.18%

 

 

Esgair y Llyn

Summit Height:  528.6m (converted to OSGM15)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 84116 70174

Bwlch Height:  513.0m (converted to OSGM15)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 83810 70088

Drop:  15.6m (Welsh Highland P15 addition) (Y Pellennig addition)

Dominance:  2.96%

 

 

For further details please consult the Trimble Survey Spreadsheet

 

 

 

  

Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Esgair Wen

07.04.23  Pt. 501.5m (SN 776 629), Pt. 503.9m (SN 776 625) and Esgair Llyn Du (SN 769 620) 

Pt. 501.5m (SN 776 629)

Today involved unfinished business with a forested top positioned in the great swathe of conifer plantation that makes up the Tywi Forest.  I had visited this area once before in 2009, hence the unfinished business, and on that occasion I did a relatively long walk from one forested top to another, without the aid of knowing where the forest rides were positioned and with an Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer map that did not show the continuation of the main forest track that I used between the hills.  That day was particularly adventurous as I did not know whether each hill on my route could be joined without hours of conifer bashing.

During the walk in 2009 I visited Esgair Llyn Du, whose summit consists of a ridge aligned north to south.  I had the high point of this hill marked on the southern periphery of the ridge, which my map indicated had five separate 530m upper contour rings, with two of these relatively small.  I remember being surprised when I saw the southern section of the upper part of this hill devoid of conifers.  Or more precisely devoid of upright conifers as this section of forest had recently been felled; I quickly stumbled my way to what I thought the high point, reversed my route and continued on the main forest track to my next hill.  A few years later and a 534m spot height appeared on an online map on the next northerly 530m ring contour, necessitating a re-visit to make sure I had visited the high point of the hill.  Such re-visits are probably only the concern of a hill bagger.

The route toward Esgair Llyn Du gives options to include a number of other 500m P15 summits, all of which are included in the Welsh Highlands – Uchafion Cymru list.  And so it was appropriate that this walk was conducted in the company of Aled Williams; the co-author of this list, who being much younger and enthusiastic than me could shoot off to visit all near hills, whilst I could leisurely concentrate on the one summit; Esgair Llyn Du.

We met at Mallwyd where I left my car, with Aled driving onward toward Strata Florida and the minor road heading south-eastward that gives access to this part of the forest.  The day was set fine with fair weather cloud predicted to bubble up, but it was going to be dry and not too warm, which for the purposes of this walk was ideal.

The main forest track continued heading south-eastward, gaining height as it did so.  We stopped once or twice on our way up to Bwlch Rhyd y Meirch.  I hadn’t been out on the hill in a while and I was struck with the quietness of the land, this was only pierced by a myriad of distant bird song that gently echoed through the trees. 

Gathering data at the summit of Pt. 501.5m (SN 776 629).  (Photo Aled Williams)

It was at the bwlch that Aled left me to visit his first hill, this is marked with a 502m summit spot height and is as it was in 2009; still free of conifers with them having been felled.  As Aled visited this first hill I looked farther north-east in to some of the most remote land in Wales, with much of the immediate foreground consisting of acres of conifers, but beyond were open hills, with light and shade empathising the lay of land.  It was good to be out after having a winter break from the hills. 

Gathering data at the summit of Pt. 503.9m (SN 776 625).  (Photo: Aled Williams)

Aled had taken the Trimble to survey the summit and after re-joining me he kept it for the next hill which positioned just to the south has a 504m map summit spot height.  I’d visited both of these hills in 2009 and was happy enough to watch Aled disappear up their slopes heading toward another Trimble summit survey. 

The second hill of five that Aled visited during the day

Having waited for Aled as he ascended the first hill; this second hill gave me opportunity to slowly walk up the continuation of the forest track, which I did, with Aled catching me up near to where the summit of Esgair Llyn Du came in to view. 

Aled on the forestry track quickly catching me up

Aled had come prepared with aerial images of these hills on his mobile phone and therefore we were aware of the forest ride that follows the summit ridge of Esgair Llyn Du, all we had to do was find it and this would hopefully then give us relatively easy access to this hill’s high point. 

Esgair Llyn Du

The aerial image showed the forest ride joining the main track at a corner, however we could save a little distance by cutting the corner and stomping over ground now felled of trees, but still with the usual pitfalls of gauged out peaty channels and uneven ground.  I slowly followed Aled as he confidently strode out to find the forest ride.  Once found, we veered rightward and followed it to the first top on the ridge, this is the point I had reached in 2009.  We judged the high point to be free of trees and I proceeded to set the Trimble up to gather allotted data. 

The Trimble set-up position at the first of the Esgair Llyn Du tops 

From inside of the conifers we had a good view looking at the continuation of the forest ride to where the online map indicates the 534m spot height to be positioned.  The land farther on looked higher and therefore after the customary five minutes of data collection, the equipment was closed down and we continued northward on the forest ride.

The second top proved problematic for the Trimble and although data were attempted to be gathered the equipment beeped in frenzy when activated and soon closed itself down.  The position was enclosed, but one never knows whether accurate data will be collected as the Trimble had certainly gathered data from more enclosed positions in the past. 

The Trimble set-up position at the second of the Esgair Llyn Du tops

We debated retracing our inward route back to the main forest track, or continuing in our northward direction on the forest ride over the last of the 530m map contour rings.  Thankfully Aled persuaded me to do the latter as when on its high point we both thought this higher than the previous two.  However, each was not directly visible from the other, so we will have to wait for LIDAR to confirm which is the higher.  But 14 years after my previous visit I was happy in the knowledge I had now stood on the top of Esgair Llyn Du.  I then followed Aled as he took a direct course down through the mature conifers, aiming for the main forest track.  Such routes can become deceptive with any onward view just confined to the immediate conifers, but such routes also have a perverse beauty as few people must come such ways, and with the trees mature they at least allowed dappled light to cast light and shade down to the moss encrusted land below. 

Aled at the third of the Esgair Llyn Du tops

Heading through the trees back toward the main forest track

After making it back on to the main forest track we stopped beside a quarried pool, sat on a rock, and rested.  A few minutes later and we were back at Bwlch Rhyd y Meirch.  This was decision time for me, as two potential hills remained to visit, one of which I had not been up on my 2009 extended foray.  However, I already knew that I was content with just visiting Esgair Llyn Du and so as Aled headed farther eastward to visit the summit of Graig Wen before heading out of the forest and doubling back to the summit of Pen y Bwlch, I continued down our inward route.

I stopped occasionally to listen to the sounds of the forest, the tranquillity of which was only disturbed by three off road vehicles which were hunting out the narrower bog laden tracks.

At the junction where a green track joins the main forest track I followed it upward to the edge of the forest.  This was the route down from Pen y Bwlch; the last hill for Aled to visit.  I contemplated having a slow plod up to its summit to survey it and wait for Aled to join me, but I could remember when in 2009 this hill was my first of the day and then thinking that it had a bit more uphill than expected.  I looked up to it and thought that my continued slow wander back down the track was the order of the day. 

Pen y Bwlch

Having turned my back to the hill I continued down the forest track and was suddenly confronted by a flash of orange; a fox.  It immediately heard me and turned; I stopped and automatically reached for my camera.  It soon scampered farther down the track out of sight.  When I reached the next corner there it was, still on the track, but seeing me it soon disappeared off again and this time in to the undergrowth. 

Handsome creature

Lichen on fence post

I continued down, resting on logs at one point where we had done likewise on our ascent.  I was in no rush and more than happy with my one summit of the day.  Arriving at Aled’s car I changed and waited for him to appear, thirty minutes later and there he was, he had made good time over the other two hills. 

 

Survey Result:

 

Pt. 501.5m

Summit Height:  501.5m (converted to OSGM15, Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 77686 62986 (Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Bwlch Height:  486m (spot height)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 77925 63540 (spot height)

Drop:  16m (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and spot height bwlch)

Dominance:  3.10% (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and spot height bwlch)

 

 

Pt. 503.9m

Summit Height:  503.9m (converted to OSGM15, Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 77606 62581 (Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Bwlch Height:  c 487m (interpolation)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 77492 62497 (interpolation)

Drop:  c 17m (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and interpolated bwlch)

Dominance:  3.35% (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and interpolated bwlch)

 

 

Esgair Llyn Du

Summit Height:  532.8m (LIDAR)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 76930 62044 (LIDAR) (summit relocation)

Bwlch Height:  513.8m (LIDAR)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 76942 61196 (LIDAR)

Drop:  19.0m (LIDAR) (500m Sub-Twmpau deletion)

Dominance:  3.57% (LIDAR)

 

 

For further details please consult the Trimble Survey Spreadsheet