Mapping Mountains – Significant Name Changes – 30-99m Twmpau and Y Trechol – The Dominant Hills of Wales

Ynys Lawd (SH 202 822)

There has been a Significant Name Change to a hill that is listed in the 30-99m Twmpau and Y Trechol – The Dominant Hills of Wales, with the summit height confirmed by a survey with the Trimble GeoXH 6000 conducted by Myrddyn Phillips and which took place on the 25^th October 2018.

Ynys Lawd (SH 202 822)

The criteria for the two listings that this name change applies to are:

30-99m Twmpau - Welsh hills at or above 30m and below 100m in height with 30m minimum drop, with an accompanying sub list entitled the 30-99m Sub-Twmpau with the criteria for this sub category being all Welsh hills at or above 30m and below 100m in height with 20m or more and below 30m of drop, with the word Twmpau being an acronym standing for thirty welsh metre prominences and upward.

Y Trechol - The Dominant Hills of Wales - Welsh P30 hills whose prominence  equal or exceed half that of their absolute height.  With the criteria for Lesser Dominant status being those additional Welsh P30 hills whose prominence is between one third and half that of their absolute height, with the Introduction to the Mapping Mountains publication of this list appearing on the 3^rd December 2015.

The hill is adjoined to the Ynys Môn group of hills, which are situated in the north-western part of North Wales (Region A, Sub-Region A1), and as its name implies it is an island that is adjoined to a larger island by an aluminium bridge, and is positioned to the west of the north-western part of Ynys Gybi (Holy Island).  

This hill was first listed in the original Welsh 30-99m P30 list published on Geoff Crowder’s v-g.me website under the name of South Stack, with an accompanying note stating; AKA Ynys Lawd, with both of these names appearing on Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer maps of the day.

South Stack

41m

SH202822

114

262

AKA Ynys Lawd

The intricacies of language and prioritising one in favour of another for listing a hill is fraught with complication, with originating Cymraeg names being anglicised and also originating English names being cymricised, examples such as these are more common in border country and especially so for anglicised forms.  There is no steadfast rule that fits all, but as a standard a name that has its origins in the Welsh language and where this is substantiated by either historic documentation and / or contemporary usage should be prioritised in favour of a contemporary anglicised or English version of the name.  Likewise, if a name exists where an element of it is in English and if this name applies to a hill that is situated in a Welsh speaking part of Wales it is standard practice to use a full Welsh term for the name.

The Trimble GeoXH 6000 gathering data at the summit of Ynys Lawd

Therefore, the name this hill is now listed by in the 30-99m Twmpau and Y Trechol – The Dominant Hills of Wales is Ynys Lawd, and this was derived as the Welsh name for this hill is prioritised over its English counterpart, which for listing purposes is standard practice.

The full details for the hill are:

Group:  Ynys Môn

Name:  Ynys Lawd

Previously Listed Name:  South Stack 

OS 1:50,000 map:  114

Summit Height:  42.8m (converted to OSGM15)

Summit Grid Reference:  SH 20224 82265

Bwlch Height:  N/A, sea

Bwlch Grid Reference:  N/A, sea 

Drop:  42.8m (converted to OSGM15)

Dominance:  100.00%

For details on the survey of this hill

Myrddyn Phillips (May 2019)

Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Mynydd Twr

25.10.18  Ynys Lawd (SH 202 822)  

Ynys Lawd (SH 202 822)

Ynys Lawd sits against the western cliff edge of Ynys Gybi, nestled against sea and land.  It has a foot bridge that connects to its larger neighbouring island of Ynys Gybi, which in turn is also connected by bridge to its neighbouring and larger island of Ynys Môn, and this latter island is also connected by bridge to the mainland of Wales, which itself is a part of an island.  In affect Ynys Lawd is an island connected to a larger island, which in turn is connected to a larger island which again in turn is connected to another larger island.

If wanting the English names to these islands they are: Ynys Lawd (South Stack) connected by bridge to Ynys Gybi (Holy Island) connected by bridge to Ynys Môn (Anglesey) connected by bridge to the rest of Britain, which in turn is an island connected to mainland Europe by tunnel.

I’d tried to visit Ynys Lawd many years ago and found that the island had just closed for the winter months, and therefore I’d looked forward to the opportunity of visiting ever since.

I drove to the island with my brother, who remained in the car with a good book convalescing from a broken hip.  The narrow road continues from the main car park adjacent to the small visitor centre and it is from the end of this tarmac that the first of 421 steps leads down the cliff toward the connecting foot bridge.

On the way toward the steps I’d visited Elen’s Tower and watched a herd of sheep scamper across the cliff edge, a daunting prospect for me but one done with ease when hunting out juicy morsels to eat.

Looking across to Ynys Lawd

One step led to another and as I continued downward Ynys Lawd became ever more dominant, with its lighthouse lamp flickering as it rotated.

The last few steps leading to the foot bridge

There is a £5.80 charge per adult to visit the island and I paid this when I arrived at the main building, one other person had arrived before me and he was already having a conducted tour of the engine room and light room. 

Although I wanted to visit the island and hear about its history, I also wanted to at least visit its remaining natural high point and if at all possible also survey it.  Once pleasantries were over I diplomatically asked permission to do so, as the remaining high point is positioned behind a small locked wooden gate and is out of bounds for the paying public.

One of the two guides who met me opened an access gate and we walked around the side of the main building and there the rock stood, and unless a person wanted a quick clandestine visit it was definitely out of bounds.  Having explained what I wanted to do, we decided that I could potter about at the side of the building taking photos for ten minutes or so, and the guide then kindly left me to my own devises.

Within a minute or so I was over the wall, around the small wooden gate, and back over the continuation of the wall and standing on the remaining high point, and a few minutes later the Trimble was set up gathering its allotted ten minutes of data.

Gathering data at the summit of Ynys Lawd

During this time I mainly sat and waited, but did on occasion wander around and take in the view.  But I did not want to linger, and once data were gathered and stored I closed the equipment down, took a few photographs and retraced my inward route back around the side of the main building to the two guides.  I was asked if I had enjoyed taking my photos, I said yes and thanked them for letting me do so.

The arrow indicates the position of the summit rock and in the photographer's own words; this has good 'plummet potential'.  Photo:  Charlie Leventon

For anyone visiting this island a trip to the top of the lighthouse is recommended, and after visiting the engine room and having its function and history explained I followed four other people up the curved steps as they progressively got steeper and narrower leading to the top.

The spiral staircase leading to the top of the lighthouse

The view from the lighthouse room is extensive with the outline of the Wicklow Mountains south of Dublin being picked out 60 miles away across the sea.  The history of the lighthouse was told us as the light rotated and the sea and near cliffs gloomed across the void.  It proved a fascinating tour and one that I would highly recommend.

All that remained was to negotiate the spiral staircase, this time downward, thank the guides and climb those imposing 421 steps back to terra firma.  On my way back on the narrow road to re-join my patiently waiting brother in the car park I peered out across the sea and looked at the outline of the Wicklow Mountains in Ireland, I’d become accustomed to these hills many years ago but had not visited their heathered domain for many years now.

The Wicklow Mountains south of Dublin

All that remained was to find a convenient lay-bi where I changed out of my walking gear and then to drive south to Trearddur Bay for an excellent lunchtime meal in the Sea Shanty before heading back to Nantlle.

Survey Result:

Ynys Lawd (significant name change) 

Summit Height:  42.8m (converted to OSGM15)

Summit Grid Reference:  SH 20224 82265

Bwlch Height:  N/A (sea)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  N/A (sea)

Drop:  42.8m (converted to OSGM15)

Dominance:  100.00%

For further details please consult the Trimble Survey Spreadsheet