Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Drygarn Fawr

25.11.23  Esgair Garthen (SN 825 642) 

Esgair Garthen (SN 825 642)

Today’s walk was the culmination of over 19½ years of visiting hills as it was April 2004 when I purposely bagged my first Welsh 500m P15.  During the intervening years I’ve written my ascents of these hills in a bagging journal, the first entry proclaims; ‘Oh no, another list!!’

In 2004 I’d completed my basic levelling surveys of the higher Welsh 2,000ft’ers and the obsessional trait that is within me was looking for another self-imposed challenge.  I have been aware of such traits and lived with them for many years.  On occasion I struggle with them as they become all encompassing, and this latest obsession certainly fitted this bill as I knew the commitment involved in trying to survey the many hundreds of marginal candidates that could qualify under the criteria involved, let alone visiting all qualifying hills would take me many years to complete.  However, I’ve also learnt such traits are a part of me and nowadays I accept this and go with the flow, and this is what I did with this latest challenge, and I’m thankful I did so as these hills and the list they are a part of have given me many wonderful days on the hill.

The list that Esgair Garthen is a part of is now co-authored with Aled Williams, and his involvement has increased the numerical robustness of the list as well as the place-name research that has gone in to it.  It is now known as the Welsh Highlands – Uchafion Cymru and takes in all Welsh hills at and above 500m in height that have 15m minimum drop.  Accompanying the main list is a P10 sub list, resulting in a comprehensive listing to the Welsh hills at and above 500m.

During initial compilation of this list I had decided to keep Esgair Garthen as my last hill, partly as it’s situated in the Elenydd, which forms the great central belt of Wales and takes in many of the qualifying hills.  It also looked relatively easy to get to with a large parking area at the start of the walk and a three mile long broad ridge to its summit, with a dotted line on contemporary Ordnance Survey maps indicating a path on this ridge.

I contemplated extending the invite to join this celebratory walk to friends and hill baggers, but as the year progressed with a number of summit relocations tidied up and the last few remaining hills visited, it became evident that if completing this year it would probably be in November.  November can be a beautiful time of year to visit the hills with settled conditions giving blue skies and frosted mornings, but it can also give seemingly unending grey days of mist and drizzled conditions, and as Aled had added so much to this list as well as being my main hill walking companion over recent times, I wasn’t going to visit this hill within him and with a full time job and young family a Saturday is the best day of the week for him to be on the hill.  This limited our opportunity, and it was only at 7.00pm the night before the walk that we communicated via email and decided to go for it.  This gave little if any time to invite others, so there were just the two of us.

We met in Caersŵs at 6.30am, an early start as Aled had a prior commitment and wanted to get home by mid to late afternoon.  Having left his car in Caersŵs I then drove south toward the Elan valley and the minor road that culminates at the dam beside the Claerwen Reservoir.  As Aled wanted to visit two P10 subs beyond Esgair Garthen I dropped him off on the lower road, he then headed up the stream valley of the Afon Arban, leaving me to drive up on the higher road and park at the far side of the dam.  This enabled me to take my time on the ridge leading to the summit and for Aled to join me after he’d visited the two sub hills.

When I got out of my car it was decidedly chilly, although there wasn’t even a wisp of breeze.  I soon had my winter gloves, ear warmer and balaclava on as well as my winter walking wellies just in case any bog was encountered.

Leaving the car I had a sense of anticipation, as 19½ years is a long time for anyone to wait until completing a list.  From the far side of the dam a gate gave access to a track which according to the map contoured up and formed a path on the grassland heading all the way to the summit.  Nowadays many of the higher ridges amongst the Elenydd have quad bike tracks on them, which eases passage through what would no doubt be rough and energy sapping terrain, and the track beyond the gate was one of these as it swung up on to the hill and continued following the broad ridge. 

A misted scene across the Claerwen Reservoir dam

As I walked up the initial part of the ridge early morning mist hugged adjacent hillsides and meandered across the water in the reservoir.  It gave a welcoming ethereal atmosphere to proceedings, a quietness that pervaded the hill.  As I slowly made my way up the quad bike track frost predominated with each delicate blade of grass encrusted in whiteness.  It was incredibly still, with just the occasional movement of sheep as they scurried across the hillside.  Otherwise it was just me and the hill, a lovely place to find oneself on such a morning. 

The Claerwen dam can just be seen through the mist in the background

The eastern ridge of Esgair Garthen is long by Welsh standards and stretches for three miles from the dam to its summit.  It comprises two or three small rises before its highest point is reached, with the dips between forming any bog on the upper hill.  Thankfully this morning any bog was still frozen as I made steady progress toward my goal. 

Sunrise

As I reached the upper plateau I looked south across the intervening stream valley to see if I could spot Aled making progress up toward his first sub hill.  I never spotted him, although I looked on numerous occasions. 

Such a still morning with only the occasional movement of sheep breaking an otherwise tranquil scene

By now I could see the summit of Esgair Garthen, still a relatively long distance away.  There was a patch of green grass leading up toward its highest point and thankfully there were signs of the quad bike track forever continuing through the partly frozen grassland.  This track proved a godsend and gave comfort as the underfoot going on many of the Elenydd hills can be torturous without the convenience of such things. 

Looking across toward the summit of Esgair Garthen on the right

Nearing the summit of Esgair Garthen which is on the left of this photo

Aled had a much longer route to the summit than me, and prior to him setting off I’d estimated my arrival between 10.00am – 10.30am.  I took my time over the last mile or so as I suspected I would arrive before him and I wanted to savour the last few minutes toward the top and keep my energy levels intact for the descent. 

Part of the Claerwen Reservoir

Nearing the top I was aware that I had begun to smile and savoured the last few steps to the highest point of the hill.  I stood on top and looked around, in all directions blue sky dominated with wild broad ridged hills stretching off in all directions.  It had taken a long time to get here, not just this morning’s steady 2½ hour plod to the summit, but all those intervening years and different hills since first setting out to complete this list.

I soon got the Trimble out to check the summit grid co-ordinates Aled had produced from LIDAR analysis against those on the screen of the equipment.  Where I had originally stopped was within a couple of metres of the LIDAR high point, I rummaged around in the moor grass for what I deemed the highest solid piece of ground and set the Trimble up on my rucksack, noted the offset between its internal antenna and the ground at its base, waited for the 0.1m accuracy level to be attained before data should be logged, and once this figure appeared on the screen I pressed ‘Log’ and left it quietly beeping away gathering individual datum points as I continued on the track toward a point where I looked down on a grassy bank and the connecting bwlch of the hill beyond.  It would be from this direction that Aled would appear, but even though I scanned the opposing ridge line I still couldn’t see him. 

Gathering data at the summit of Esgair Garthen

Leaving the Trimble to gather over ten minutes of data I basked in the luxury of completion; standing, smiling and reminiscing; thinking of all those times on the hill in the company of good friends whilst investigating these P15s.  It proved an excellent decision to compile the list and start bagging the remainder of hills in it.

By now high cloud had appeared and this chilled proceedings for 40 minutes or so until it was quickly replaced by more unadulterated blue sky, what a day to finish on!  It was perfect.

45 minutes after I arrived on the summit Aled appeared, he’d done well considering the route chosen and the terrain he had gone through.  He congratulated me and we both headed toward the summit.  Soon afterward he produced a celebratory mince pie and started blowing in to what turned out to be a giant green balloon, which I thought hilarious and then I spent many minutes standing on the summit, arms outstretched in celebratory mode holding it up to the sky. 

Aled appearing after his tough route to the top of Esgair Garthen

We remained on top together for about 30 minutes with Aled conducting an interview via video asking me about the list and hills; a thoughtful exercise and one that I will no doubt gain more appreciation from in future years. 

Celebrating on the summit of Esgair Garthen, my 630th and final Welsh Highland P15

Our route down was easy; follow the quad bike track all the way back to the dam.  On the way down, I occasionally stopped and looked back, remembering the same view on my ascent.  By now the ground had defrosted and that welcome hardness of early morning meant that the dips between those slight rises and the bog therein were now to be avoided, but none of it was too bad.

On our way down the hill a number of quad bikes appeared on the skyline and with the near barking of dogs it signalled farmers were probably trying to flush out a fox.  One of the quad bikes stopped as I jokingly hung out a thumb for a lift down the hill, we chatted for a few minutes before they sped off again. 

Nearing the end of an extremely fulfilling day

Nearing the car we realised that we could make the chippie in Rhaeadr Gwy before it closed at 2.00pm.  This gave extra incentive to get down.  Rounding the last bend just before the car I stopped and looked back over the water to the rising bulk of Esgair Garthen and took a couple of photographs.  It proved a perfect hill to finish on and we made it in time for those chips, which also proved a good way to end an excellent day. 

 

Survey Result:

 

Esgair Garthen                          

Summit Height:  508.1m (converted to OSGM15, Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 82531 64276 (Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Bwlch Height:  485.35m (LIDAR)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 82330 63914 (LIDAR)

Drop:  22.7m (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and LIDAR bwlch)

Dominance:  4.47% (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and LIDAR bwlch)

 

 

For further details please consult the Trimble Survey Spreadsheet

 

  

Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Drygarn Fawr

16.09.23  Mynydd Trawsnant (SN 824 485) 

The summit area of Mynydd Trawsnant (SN 824 485)

Mynydd Trawsnant appears in a number of hill lists, including the Welsh Highlands – Uchafion Cymru, the Deweys and the 500m Twmpau.  Its summit position in these lists has recently been relocated due to LIDAR analysis conducted by Aled Williams. 

LIDAR summit image of Mynydd Trawsnant

Mynydd Trawsnant is one of many hills is this area that have been swamped by conifer plantation which forms a part of the extensive Tywi Forest.  However, recent visits to its relocated summit reported the forestry in this section felled with newly planted trees already in situ.  Because of this it was an ideal time to visit and gather Trimble data to compare to that of LIDAR.

I had visited its previously listed summit position once before when the barrier at the start of the forest track leading toward its summit was open, not wanting to pass on this invitation I drove up the track and parked close to its then recognised high point.  Before visiting the summit I heard the approaching sound of a forestry lorry and therefore quickly hid behind a tree.  Logging was in progress and not wanting to linger I quickly scampered up the forest ride to what was then considered its high point and just as quickly scampered back down before driving down the forest track to the minor paved road at its end.

Today, along with Aled, we wanted to gather data from the LIDAR high point.  Ideally another data set should be gathered from the old summit position, but again recent visits indicated this was still submerged in conifers.

It’s a long drive south close the eastern shore of Llyn Brianne to where the forest track heads up toward the summit of Mynydd Trawsnant.  Approaching the track we saw that the barrier was open giving access up the hill.  Driving toward the hill we had seen a number of notices relating to a race that was taking place and the arrows indicating the way ahead for the runners pointed up the same track, we wondered whether the barrier was open to give access to the runners and any support vehicles following the race. 

Parked and ready to tackle the relocated summit of Mynydd Trawsnant

Having driven up the track we parked as close to the summit as we could and set off walking at 8.55am as the first flecks of forecast rain began to push northward.  This would herald damp and misty conditions for the continuation of the walk Aled had planned.  However, for me I only had one summit to visit and this was ever so close to where we had parked. 

Setting off up the forest ride between the mature conifers and old summit position on the left and the felled forestry and new summit position on the right

A forest ride between the felled section and the remaining mature tees gave good access and relatively easy underfoot conditions over and close to the old summit position toward the slightly higher LIDAR summit which was ahead of us and to our right.  This as with many felled forested ground looked like an assault course, but thankfully none of it was difficult, although I did manage to almost sit in a water course as I slipped and fell. 

Typical felled forestry land made even more bleak by the grey overhead conditions and incoming rain

The Trimble was used as a hand-help GPS unit to zero in to the co-ordinates ascertained from LIDAR analysis.  When there we debated where the survey equipment should be set up and opted to align it with a patch of grass that was solid and stable.  As the Trimble collected data I sat on a tree stump and scribbled all necessary detail in my survey note book. 

Gathering data at the summit area of Mynydd Trawsnant

Once the equipment was packed away we reversed our inward route, but this time avoiding the water course and aiming for the corner of forest as it butts up against the open hill to its north.  This gave a semblance of what these hills were like before the infestation of conifers.  The open hillside was expansive, albeit with the customary thick and rough Elenydd summer grassland in evidence. 

Heading back to the forest track

Once back at the car I waved Aled off, who was continuing south wanting to visit two subs in the forest before breaking out of the conifers to visit Garn Wen, which is listed as a Dewey and lastly a Pedwar overlooking Llanwrtyd, where we had arranged for me to pick him up in the early afternoon. 

Aled heading off farther in to the forest for what proved a wet and misty few hours

I then set off driving back down the forest track, stopping once to speak with a man who was standing outside his vehicle setting up a small food and drink station for the runners in the race.  He told me there were 21 runners, although the number was originally higher with a number having recently pulled out.

Once out of the forest and back on the minor paved road close to Llyn Brianne I stopped and changed as the rain fell.  It looked a particularly murky scene with grey predominating with mist enclosing many near summits.  It took 55 minutes to drive from here to Llanwrtyd, stopping once to chat with a farmer.

Once at Llanwrtyd I found the car park we had arranged to meet at, read a book, sheltered from the rain and once this stopped walked in to town to find that Caffi Sosban served an all-day breakfast, which once Aled had completed his walk we visited and ate.  An excellent way to end a walk!      

 

Survey Result:

 

Mynydd Trawsnant                   

Summit Height:  516.6m (LIDAR)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 82452 48564 (LIDAR) (summit relocation –Deweys) (summit relocation – 500m Twmpau and Welsh Highlands – Uchafion Cymru)

Bwlch Height:  378.3m (LIDAR)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 82781 50423 (LIDAR)

Drop:  138.3m (LIDAR)

Dominance:  26.77% (LIDAR)

 

 

For further details please consult the Trimble Survey Spreadsheet

  

Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Drygarn Fawr

01.07.23  Esgair Gerwyn (SN 788 586) 

Esgair Gerwyn (SN 788 586)

Having just visited a felled forested top positioned at SN 817 554, I drove further on the mountain road that heads from Beulah in the east toward Tregaron in the west.  This is a road that Aled and I had used to access hills a few weeks ago and it is one that I used a number of years ago when bagging the Deweys.  The land either side of the narrow road is open and wild, however much of the western section is planted in regimented conifers.  Even with the imposition of these trees, it is still a marvellous experience to drive on this road as it winds its way through the landscape.

My last objective of the day was Esgair Gerwyn, this is one of two remaining hills situated in this forestry that had stared back at me from the map for many years.  Forested summits are not my favourite and I’m prone to leave them toward the end of any list completion, purely as my enjoyment and interest is better served when visiting an open and unencumbered hill.  However, forested summits can add a perverse enjoyment to the hill bagging experience, and Esgair Gerwyn fitted this description perfectly. 

A good parking place for Esgair Gerwyn if the swing gate is open at the start of the track

For those wishing easier access to the summit of this hill there are a number of forest tracks that lead toward its high point.  Two of these tracks start from the mountain road we were now driving on.  We opted for the farther west of these tracks which started higher and also looked as if it was in better condition.  The swing gate near its start was open and therefore up I drove.  We quickly gained height and soon swung leftward where the lower of the two access tracks met the main forest track.  Soon Aled said; ‘we’re here’, indicating that it was time to find a parking place, which was easy to do as another minor track intersected with the main forest track enabling me to pull over to the side leaving room for any vehicle to pass, not that we expected many vehicles to come this way during what would be a relatively quick ascent. 

The fire break leading toward the summit of Esgair Gerwyn

Backtracking on the forest track for a few metres soon brought us to the fire break which was our access point to the higher part of the hill.  Entering the forest was like venturing in to another world where green predominated with mosses covering the ground and near trees, a sign of mature forestry and one that is usually wet! 

The battle through and over (and under) the wind blown trees is just about to commence

Before entering the forested section, I activated the Trimble and we waited until it logged on to the required five minimum satellites and Aled then used this as a hand-held device as we headed up the fire break toward where the summit loomed ahead.  However, between us and it were a mass of felled trees, all casualties of wind, these formed a moss encrusted wet obstacle course.  We unsuccessfully tried veering away from the fallen trees by heading further in to the still upright and mature trees, but passage was barred wherever we went.  However, with patience we slowly made progress, and the summit which was only 200 metres from our access point in to the forest was forever getting nearer. 

Nearing the summit

Eventually the co-ordinates on the screen of the Trimble matched those produced by LIDAR.  We looked around for higher ground, little vied for the accolade.  We were at the summit. 

Aled at the summit of Esgair Gerwyn

Before leaving the high point of Esgair Gerwyn we took the customary summit photographs and then tried to find an easier way out of the forest.  It is debateable if we succeeded as wind-blown tree debris seemed to be all around.  But again in these circumstances progress is usually made and for this hill thankfully the distance back to the forest track was not great. 

Trying to find an easier way down

Once back at the car the midges attacked us which made for a quick retreat driving back down the forest track on to the relative safety of the mountain road.  Another Welsh Highland P15 visited, just five more to go. 

 

Survey Result:

 

Esgair Gerwyn                          

Summit Height:  503.3m (LIDAR)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 78815 58685 (LIDAR)

Bwlch Height:  487.8m (LIDAR)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 78519 58774 (LIDAR)

Drop:  15.5m (LIDAR)

Dominance:  3.09% (LIDAR)

 

 

For further details please consult the Trimble Survey Spreadsheet

  

Mapping Mountains – Trimble Surveys – Drygarn Fawr

01.07.23  Pt. 506.0m (SN 817 554) 

Pt. 506.0m (SN 817 554)

Back to the forested hills above the Tywi valley today, and with only six hills remaining to complete the Welsh Highlands list and with the encouragement from Aled the plan was to knock another one off the ever decreasing total.  This hill was my main objective of the day and is listed as Esgair Gerwyn (SN 788 586), however as a higher prominence hill which is classified as a Dewey is positioned conveniently across the valley and on the way to Esgair Gerwyn, it seemed wise to visit the Dewey first and make more of the day by doing so.

We were parked at the start of the forest track leading toward the summit by 8.50am.  Stepping out of the car was a shock as a chilled breeze blew with flecks of wind-blown drizzle adding merriment to the scene; therefore I put my lightweight fleece on and was glad for its extra warmth. 

Heading up the forest track

The gate at the start of the forest track was locked, which wasn’t a surprise.  Soon on the other side we made good progress up the track as drizzled showers pushed inland toward us.  Looking toward the bleak grey skies to the west the cloud was just above the hills, and one of these was Esgair Gerwyn.  In time the cloud base would rise and patches of direct sunlight would appear, adding flashes of intensified colour to the scene.  This was highlighted by the deepening grey sky, which always intensifies colour when direct sunlight is at play. 

Flashes of sunlight between the showers

As height was gained we passed a section of felled forest, with machinery beside the track, with cut and stacked logs neatly arranged for pick-up.  A short distance beyond and Aled called back that the summit area was free of trees, which was an unexpected bonus. 

One of the hazards of visiting forested tops

Prior to tree felling this section of the hill had two fire breaks leading up toward the summit.  The second of which took you very close to the high point.  This is what I found on my only previous visit in June 2003.  These fire breaks were still evident on the ground, the first adjacent to the still standing mature trees and the second further in to the felled section.  It was this second fire break that would lead us toward the summit. 

A pleasant surprise when the summit area came in to view and it was free of trees

Considering the whole summit area of this hill had recently been felled the going underfoot was relatively easy as we left the confines of the track and headed toward the high point, Aled had recently analysed this hill with new Welsh LIDAR, and using the Trimble GeoXH 6000 as a hand-held device soon took us to the LIDAR high point. 

Heading up the fire break

The felled section gave a number of advantages; easier access to the high point, a summit that could now be Trimbled and the prospect of a view, the latter was only partial as more mature conifers were in front of us. 

Gathering data at the summit of Pt. 506.0m (SN 817 554)

By now the intermittent drizzled showers were massing to wind-blown rain which swept across the summit as the Trimble beeped away collecting its individual datum points.  Once allotted data were gathered and stored I closed the equipment down, wiped the screen to dry it off and down we went back on the easier ground of the fire break to the forest track.  It was here that Aled set off farther in to the forest to visit a sub hill positioned at SN 825 540, whilst I headed down our inward route enjoying the freshness of drizzle and the view farther west, which was now slate grey with more rain massing. 

Aled heading off toward the Welsh Highland Sub which is in the background on the left

Once back at the car I quickly sorted my gear out before sitting in the driver’s seat with a bite to eat, water and a good book.  About an hour after I had arrived, Aled appeared with stories of conifer bashing to get to the trig pillar at the summit of the sub hill.  I was glad that the subs had not yet entailed a compulsive bagging mentality in me! 

 

Survey Result:

 

Pt. 506.0m                                

Summit Height:  506.0m (converted to OSGM15, Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Summit Grid Reference:  SN 81733 55429 (Trimble GeoXH 6000)

Bwlch Height:  462.7m (LIDAR)

Bwlch Grid Reference:  SN 81897 54586 (LIDAR)

Drop:  43.3m (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and LIDAR bwlch)

Dominance:  8.56% (Trimble GeoXH 6000 summit and LIDAR bwlch)

 

 

For further details please consult the Trimble Survey Spreadsheet